There was a gentle hiss of steam behind the trees as the locomotive Harrogate, taking a break from hauling passengers along the South Tynedale railway, simmered under the water tower while her fireman refilled her saddle tank. Her livery – apart from the warning scarlet of her buffer beams – perfectly matched the fresh green foliage of the sycamores.
This time we had come to walk alongside the track rather than ride the railway. The footpath led us out beyond the town until only the spire of St Augustine's church remained visible above the trees, with the rising ground of Thornhope Fell and Broad Mea ahead. The early summer lineside flora of guelder rose, broom, water avens, crosswort, spotted orchids and wood cranesbill flanked the footpath. At the first viaduct we leaned over the parapet to watch a spotted flycatcher darting out over the river and plucking insects from the air: we could hear its beak snap closed.
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